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Soundproof Basement Ceiling: How to Do It
Author: Sturgeon Christie
Last Updated: February 9, 2024
Read Time: 7 Minutes
Soundproof Basement Ceiling: How to Do It
Author:
Sturgeon Christie
Last Updated:
February 9, 2024
Read Time:
7 Minutes
Author: Sturgeon Christie
Updated: Feb. 9, 2024
Read Time: 7 Minutes
An unfinished basement ceiling will create a number of sound problems because there's less material for sound to pass through.
The best way to build a soundproof basement ceiling is to use resilient clips and 5/8" drywall to close the exposed ceiling. This same principle applies to any exposed ceiliing like one that might be found in multi-families.
Keep reading to learn how to do it and what to look out for when soundproofing a basement ceiling in your home.
An unfinished basement ceiling will create a number of sound problems because there's less material for sound to pass through.
The best way to build a soundproof basement ceiling is to use resilient clips and 5/8" drywall to close the exposed ceiling. This same principle applies to any exposed ceiliing like one that might be found in multi-families.
Keep reading to learn how to do it and what to look out for when soundproofing a basement ceiling in your home.
Common Types of Exposed Ceiling Noises
When soundproofing an exposed ceiling, the two types of noise you will be dealing with are airborne and structural noise.
Structural Noise Through an Exposed Ceiling
Structural noise (or impact noise) is the most common soundproofing issue when it comes to ceilings and floors. Structural noise occurs when an object makes contact with another object, creating vibrational energy that is heard as sound. Impact noise includes footsteps on the floor above, furniture moving around, and objects being dropped.
Airborne Noise From the Floor Above
Airborne noise issues are less common in floor-ceiling assemblies, but they definitely still exist. Airborne noise is sound waves that travel through the air. Examples of airborne noise are people talking, phones ringing, radios playing, and dogs barking.
How to Soundproof an Exposed Ceiling for Impact Noise
- Install Sound Isolation Clips
- Install Rubber Floor Underlayment
To soundproof your exposed ceiling for impact noise, you basically have two options. Expecting other solutions to stop footfall noise is the most common mistake people make when doing research on the internet. The reason both of these solutions work is that they isolate either the floor above or the ceiling below from the building’s structure, making it harder for structural noise to pass through. To isolate the ceiling, use the RSIC-1 clip. To isolate the floror, use an underlayment.
Step 1: Use Sound Isolation Clips on the Ceiling Studs
The best way to soundproof an exposed ceiling is to use the RSIC-1 clip. Sound isolation clips are part of building a soundproof ceiling system by installing them directly to the framing of your wall or ceiling, and then snapping in 25 gauge hat channel. Finally, the drywall is installed on the hat channel. Because there is no mechanical bond between the two parts of the barrier, this product decouples the framing from the drywall. After installation, when structural noise comes from the floor above, the sound waves will be halted at the barrier and will not pass through the ceiling. This will yield a VERY high IIC (impact insulation class) rating while also improving STC.
Step 2: Install A Rubber Floor Underlayment to the floor above
The other option for soundproofing your exposed ceiling for impact noise is to treat the floor above. This is an excellent option if you have access to the room above, and think a floor noise reduction project will be easier than installing sound isolation clips below. For impact noise, we recommend either a thick carpet or our recycled rubber underlayment.
Generally, when there is structural noise passing through a floor-ceiling assembly, the floor is made of hardwood or tile. All hard floorings have issues with transmitting footfall noise. The best way to treat a hard floor is to install a rubber floor underlayment before installing your finished flooring. Our UnderBlock Rubber Floor Underlayment is a great option that will significantly reduce the amount of structural noise passing through your floor.
If you already have a finished floor, the ceiling treatment below may be the best option. You can also tear up the hardwood or tile floor and add carpet. Carpeted flooring is much softer and better at softening the impact of footsteps and other structural noise on floors.
Soundproofing an Exposed Ceiling for Airborne Noise
Both of the above-mentioned methods are also effective at blocking airborne noise. So, typically if you use RSIC clips and install drywall on the ceiling or use a floor underlayment on the ceiling above, you will fix both structural and airborne noise issues. That said, if you want more sound reduction or are still hearing a lot of airborne noise transmission after these methods, there are a few things you can do to further improve the barrier.
Add sound Insulation material to exposed ceiling cavity
First, always fill the cavity with insulation. This is a cheap and easy way to improve any barrier by 5-7 STC points. If you ask a local builder or contractor for soundproofing help, “add insulation” is almost always the recommendation you’ll get. Ever heard the phrase “to a hammer, everything’s a nail”? Unless you’ve been trained on soundproofing, adding insulation is probably the only solution you’ve heard of.
Just remember, filling the cavity with insulation is definitely helpful for airborne noise – not so much for impact noise (footsteps).
Add DensE bARRIER to Soundproof the Exposed Ceiling
Second, adding density is fundamental for any project when soundproofing for airborne noise. To soundproof an exposed ceiling, always choose ⅝” thick drywall over ½” drywall.
For a significant amount of noise reduction, you can also add an additional layer of drywall. Installing two sheets of ⅝” thick drywall with a layer of Green Glue between them is a surefire way to ensure your ceiling is dense enough to block sound. We often recommend the Green Glue approach when someone’s ceiling is already finished, and they don’t want to rip out the existing ceiling. If you are dealing with echo and reverb issues in the space now that you have a more reflective surface as your finished ceiling, we recommend use acoustic ceiling treatments to improve the noise quality.
Seal THE Air Gaps between floorS
The third fundamental factor when soundproofing for airborne noise is to ensure all cracks and penetrations are sealed. In ceilings, you should avoid using canned lighting, as the hole in the ceiling creating for these lights is just a big opening for sound to get through. If you have to use canned lights, you absolutely must seal around each penetration with acoustical sealant. Also, ensure that you seal around the perimeter of the ceiling using acoustical sealant.
If you have more questions about soundproofing your home, feel free to contact us. A soundproofing expert at Second Skin is always ready to help!